LONDON TO KATHMANDU
Departed 27th September, 1978

19,200 kms, 40 Passengers, 80 Days, Mercedes 0302 Overland Coach

• Introduction >
• Itinerary 1978 >
• Passenger List >
• Historic Influences >
• Istanbul to India >

Introduction
In the 1970s, overland journeys to India became an everyday occurrence, young and old rose to the challenge of adventure and travel, following in the
footsteps of Alexander the Great, Marco Polo, Ghengis Khan, Tamerlane, Winston Churchill and the dreams of England's Rudyard Kipling. India to Englishmen was the picturesque romantic India of Kipling's tales.

Adequate road systems to facilitate overland trade by Asia caused the countries concerned to improve their road network to a standard where it was possible to travel to India by car or coach, visiting the great tourist sights and Capital cities enroute.

It was considered that the best time of the year to begin a journey to India from England was in early to mid September, arriving in India in November when the temperatures were cooler. Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, and the countries to the east and South were affected by the southwest and northeast monsoons between April and October. The heavy rainfall often caused floods in the low lying countryside of the monsoon belt, making the roads impassible. The best time for an overland journey was between November and March.

Snow and ice conditions in the mountainous regions of Turkey, Iran and Afghanistan made any attempted crossing foolhardy during the winter months.
Various European and Russian routes met in Istanbul before following traditional trade paths through northern and southern Turkey to Iran, or the Middle East. Recent conflict between Iran and Iraq, Syria and Israel and the Russian invasion of Afghanistan has closed these routes causing travellers to overfly the turmoil from either Istanbul or Amman to Karachi, missing the heart of Mesopotamia, Persia and Afghanistan's route to the Khyber Pass.

Itinerary 1978

Passenger List

Historic Influences

Alexander The Great
Although coming after the Persians, transformed the Greek world by opening it up to the resources of the Middle East. In 334 BC he crossed the Hellespont from Europe to Asia, swept through Asia Minor past Syria to Egypt. Then East and South East down the Tigris and Eurphrates, on into the heartland of Bukhara and Tashkent. Retracing his steps turned south into present day Kashmir and East again across the Indus as far as Beas (South West of Delhi), hoping to reach Ocean, the great mythical river which the Greeks believed to encircle the landmass of the world. His troops would go no further, turning back along the Indus to its mouth and marched with bitter sufferings north westward back to Persepolis.

Genghis Khan
The Mongol warlord's early life is shrouded in mystery. This primitive tribesman from Mongolia was an extraordinary leader, he united the Mongols and transformed them into a world power. Born late in the 12th Century, son of a tribal Chief, Genghis Khan, subdued neighbouring tribes and in 1211 invaded the independent Chin Empire in Northern China, pierced the Great Wall and opened a struggle that was to continue for twenty three years. Genghis died in 1227, but his conquests were continued by his successors who included Tamerlane and the Moghal Emperor Babur, who ruled part of Northern India from 1525 until his death in 1530. Babur's grandson was the famed Akbar, who ascended the throne in 1556 when he was only 14. Islam was by now well entwined into the fabric of India.

Marco Polo
Perhaps the early traveller of our dreams and aspirations embarked on a journey designed by himself and funded by the rich merchants of Venice. His journey lasted from 1271 until 1295 AD and even included a period of service at the court of Kublai Khan. Marco's journeys never took him to India as we know it today, however, his pursuit of the main trading route from Europe to Asia opened exciting new gateways for the trading traveller.

Winston Churchill
To a young Winston Churchill, India represented challenge and adventure. Like other young Englishmen arriving on the docks of Bombay or via the traditional overland route through Persia, they saw remote outposts administering over the lives of a million or more human beings in some areas larger than Scotland. These young men were posted to "Cantonments"! Cantonments were little British enclaves, each boasting a green expanse of garden, a slaughterhouse, band, shops and a little stone church, perhaps a replica of those in Dorset or Surrey. Here they could enjoy their games of polo and cricket before gaining a desk post in one of India's major cities. (Churchill spent time in the Swat Valley which is now in Pakistan).

These were the days of gentlemen, officers wearing plumed shakos, attending sumptuous imperial balls, tiger hunts in Assam and participation in battles between the famed Khyber Rifles and rebellious Pathon tribesmen.

Britain provided India with roads, railways, ports, even red-tape bureaucracy (for which her Government administrations are noted, even today). The death of 680,000 British soldiers in the trenches of World War I heralded the beginning of the end for British rule in India. Although Winston Churchill addressing the House of Commons said in February 1931.

"The loss of India would be final and fatal to us. It could not fail to be part of a process that would reduce us to a scale of a minor power.

Overland travel decreased after the two World Wars as the last of Britain's
administrators departed before Independence in 1947.

Istanbul to India
From Istanbul the road crosses to Gallipoli, to the Dardanelles and to ancient Troy visiting Pergamon (Bergama), Ismir and Ephesus, the ancient Capital of Roman Asia. (Mark Anthony was stationed at Ephesus whilst being involved with Cleopatra who visited him by barge from Alexandria).

The route leads south to Mersin, Adana and follows the path of the Christian Crusaders who fought Saladin, crossing into Syria, proceeding to Damascus. Damascus, reputed to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world, is on the Barada (Abana) River which forms an axis between the semi-desert land to the east and the Anti-Lebanon mountains to the West. (According to Genesis (14:14 and 15:2), Damascus existed before the time of Abraham. It subsequently occupied a central position in the Hittite, Anamean, Assyrian and Persian Empires until 332 BC when Alexander the Great conquered).

From Damascus to Amnan in Jordan, then across to the Allenby Bridge to Israel. (This is an unofficial crossing not recognised by other Arab states).

The Kings Road from Amman leads south to ancient Petra, further South is Wadi Rum scene of Lawrence of Arabia's guerilla operations against the Ottoman Turks who occupied Trans Jordan during World War I. South again is Agaba in the Gulf of Aqaba off the Red Sea with its colourful coral reefs and crystal water. East to Rutba wells the desert border post which guards the approach to Baghdad, a further 400 kms on (Baghdad is closed from 1.00 p.m. until 5.00 p.m.).

The road leads on to the dried up gardens of Babylon which the Iraq Government is hoping to irrigate and bring back to their former glory.

From Babylon to Nasiriya and ancient UR, proceeding to Qumra (The Garden of Eden), before the Iranian border. Shiraz in Iran to Persepolis, the desert city, which is one of the most impressive ruins in the world whose principles effect our civilisation even to this day. It was one of the royal capitals of the Achaemenial Kings of ancient Persia 550-330 BC. Begun by Darius 1 (Darius the Great), the successor of Cyrus the Great, who was considered by many to be the founder of the Persian Empire and the most famous figure of the ancient world, it took over 150 years to build and early suggestions point to the fact that it was built by slave labour. Modern Iranians argue that only skillful artisans were employed and paid in coinage, wine and food. Whatever, to see the polished marble figures of this 2500 year old palace brings a real sense of achievement to the modern day traveller.

From his earliest period, Darius the Great gave the world its first examples of political organisation, community administration, postal services and a planned roading system. His successors Xerxes, Artaxerxes I, 11, I11 and Darius 11, all contributed to the building of Persepolis. When Alexander the Great's armies arrived at Persepolis in 331 BC during the rein of Darius 111, they seized the vast wealth stored in the treasury, and during the drunken stupor that followed, it was suggested that Alexander should burn the palaces of Xerxes as the Persians had burned Athens 150 years before. As everyone anced and sang, he set fire to the wood and curtains and Athens was avenged.

From Perserpolis to Qom, the Islamic centre where Ayotola Hominei first studied his religion, the road proceeds directly to Teheran, the Capital of Iran since 1973. Teheran is situated at the foot of the Elburz Mountains. An English overlander, Sir Thomas Herbert, enroute to India, wrote that the city in 1627 contained 3000 houses built of sun dried bricks, and was supplied with water from a small river. In World War II, Reza Shah was forced to seek refuge in South Africa, and his son Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, acceded to the throne. Under his influence, Teheran's social and industrial expansion continued at a rapid rate helped by the increased revenue from Iran's oil production.

The traditional northern route through Iran skirts Mt. Damavand, a dormant volcano with a year round mantle of snow which at 5,671 metres or 18,600 feet is the highest mountain in Iran. The Russian border is to the north.

Until the Russians monopolised tourism, the route that followed on through Afghanistan provided a journey rich in history. Herat, Kandahar and Kabul have Afghanistan's hills, people, mud brick houses, Kochi nomads, camel trains from Russia, ancient citadels, minarets, bazaars, the animal market and Bamiyan with its massive figures of Buddha carved into the cliffs. For those lucky enough to have seen Afghanistan before the present conflict, there were many memories, one of which perhaps best describes Afghany spirit. That is the game of Buzkashi (the Goat game).

Exclusive to Afghanistan, Buzkashi as it is played today, reflects the bold fierce and reckless competitive spirit of the Afghan people. The game consists of two teams of horsemen who compete for the honour of crossing the opposing teams line with a headless young goat, thus signifying victory and the end of the game. The game goes back as far as the time of Alexander, but many people associate Buzkashi with Genghis Khan. His horsemen were adept at advancing swiftly on enemy camp sites and without dismounting they could swoop up sheep, goats and other pillage at full gallop.

The game is traditionally played during the winter and early spring. In Kabul it is played in late October when some of the finest teams in Afghanistan compete at Ghazni Stadium. At Nawroz (Afghan New Year) a 10 day Buzkashi Festival is held in Kunduz, and other games are held in the city of Balkh, Alexander's base in the 4th and 5th century.

From Kabul, the journey takes you to the Khyber Pass. Khyber is a Hebrew word meaning Fort. It is known in history as the 'corridor of invasions' and the main trade route in the past between central and southern Asia. Many caravans as well as the armies of Alexander, Genghis Khan, Tamerlane, Babur, Nadir Shah and numerous other travellers have passed through its rocky defiles during the past 2000 years. The little hilltop fortresses were the scene of many skirmishes during the Anglo-Afghan Wars. The major ones like Shagai and Jamal forts are still garrisoned by the Khyber Rifles (the Khyber Rangers).

In 1838, MacKenson, the English Army engineer, constructed a road fit for wheeled traffic through the pass and to protect it, raised the irregular force called the Khyber Rangers. The road was upgraded by the British during the second Anglo-Afghan War in 1878. The railway line was completed in 1925-26. What is left of this engineering feat threads its way through 34 tunnels and over 90 culverts and bridges. The elevation of the hills of the pass reach 3373 feet at Landi Kotal, an old Caravan Serai. This is the highest point in the Pass. The Tribal groups still living within the Pass and Khyber area are a law unto themselves, the men still carry rifles and have their own distinct codes of honour, customary law and enforce rigid codes of moral behaviour.

Now East through the contradiction that is Pakistan, to the goal, India.

When you consider that the equatorial circumference of the earth is some 40,074 km and these overland journeys are 16,000 - 20,000 kms, in a time where there are few great adventures left in our world, this has to be one of them.

Overland to India, optimism, and the challenge of travel.

Brian Cossar

Also read Gourmet India >>.

For more details and information contact our experienced travel agents:

293 Ponsonby Road  Ponsonby Auckland  New Zealand
Ph: 09 360 0443| E-mail Travel Adventures >>